Oatley Vineyard
Winemaking with nature
Image courtesy of Oatley Vineyard
Introduction
Behind the labels, the website and the wine list there is a vineyard at the root of it all. The planting and nurturing of the vines, the attention to detail needed to grow the grapes and harvest them at the right time is a skill learned and passed down. Ultimately, if the grapes are not grown and harvested correctly then you are always facing an uphill battle. One thing is absolutely clear as I I pass by the sign directing me to Oatley Vineyard, attention to detail and allowing the grapes to grow in the most natural way possible is at the top of their priorities. I put a lot of stock in how a vineyard reveals itself. Some vineyards have a beautifully paved driveway leading through the vines, some will have a big visitor centre, which is all fine. However, Oatley sits in an oasis of calm, an aura surrounds the vineyard providing an energy I’ve not encountered before or since. The lane leading to the vineyard (on the day of my visit) has grass and wildflowers growing at an exponential rate, it is clear that this is a haven for wildlife, where things are encouraged to grow and not be restricted. The first thing Ned says to me when we start walking the vines is ‘when you try and fix a problem you often just create a new one’ and therefore the vineyards ecosystem works with its environment rather than against it.
A short history
In the mid 1980s Ned’s parents (Iain and Jane) decided to upsticks from suburban London and establish Oatley Vineyard. Planting Kernling vines and Madeleine Agevine vines the first wines were made in 1990 and immediately won an international award. You can find a list of their awards here. After 30 years of producing wine Iain and Jane have passed on the running of the vineyard to their son Ned and his wife Paula. They have expanded the vineyard to include Pinot Noir and Cabernet Noir vines so that they can create a series of rosé and red wines in the near future.
Iain, Jane, Ned, Paula and the vineyard twins (image courtesy of Oatley)
The ethos
On the day of my visit long grass between the vines was being trimmed back and the ground was peppered with vine leaves that had been painstakingly hand pruned in order to let the grape flowers grow at an optimal rate. Ned is keen to emphasise that pruning the vines by hand produces a superior result. Machines can do the job quicker, but the artisan approach means that there is less risk of damage to the vines and promotes longer term vine health. It is labour intensive, but the results speak (and drink) for themselves.
The vineyard promotes a biodiverse approach. Everything has been designed to work with nature, the vines are supported by and support the wildlife around them. Soil health is vital and there is no herbicide used, instead the grass, plants and flowers are encouraged to grow around the vines to promote soil health and then cut back to regenerate naturally. Through the seasons clover flowers and adds nitrogen naturally to the soil, minimising the need for any additional fertiliser. It is a regenerative approach that means the grapes can grow in as natural environment as possible producing wines with a natural ethos at heart.
Walking through the vines there is a real sense of legacy and harmony with the land. It’s as if the ecosystem is paying back all the care and attention lavished upon it these last 30+ years.
The vines
Ned and Paula are fastidious vineyard owners. During my time there Paula was pruning the Cabernet Noir vines that have recently been planted and Ned talked me through how each different type of vine requires different treatment. They are rightly proud of their Kernling vines, planted back in 1986, that can only be found in just a handful of English vineyards. The Kernling grapes produce the Leonora wines and their zero dosage Nature Fizz. The Kernling grapes produce a crisp and dry style wine, but not too dry. The Leonora 2018 produces some more pronounced grapefruit notes, perfect for pairing with food. Whereas the 2022 Leonora is a touch sweeter (but not sweet), I thought it was suited to drinking by itself, not demanding to be paired with food. The Kernling grape also produces the outstanding zero dosage Nature Fizz, zero dosage means that there is no sugar added after secondary fermentation. The result is a sparkling wine that is as natural as the land the grapes are grown in. The flavours of the Kernling grape are allowed to express their own natural tasting notes.
The Madeleine Angevine vines produce the very popular Jane’s wine. The Madeleine Angevine vines were planted in 1987 and produce a dry, crisp and easy drinking wine.
Ned and Paula’s hard work as resulted in the new Pinot Noir vines (planted in 2022) producing their first harvest in 2024. Due to the cool and damp weather we had a time of harvest the grapes lent themselves to producing a rosé. Oatley partner with winemaker Steve (who has been making wine with them for 25 years) to produce their larger scale wines, but this first batch of Pinot Noir grapes has resulted in 140 bottles of rosé crafted by Ned himself. The Cabernet Noir vines were still in their infancy when I visited, but if the success of the Pinot Noir planting is anything to go by then the future is very bright indeed!
The tasting…
We have a thoroughly enjoyable walk through the vines, Ned sharing the stories of Oatley’s thirty plus years of wine production, talking through how they care for the vines and work with the nature around them. We then head back to the ‘wine barn’ that has just been built by Ned. This is an ideal location to taste their range of wines and look out over the vineyard. The ‘wine barn’ does an amazing job of keeping you connected to the natural landscape around you, while providing shelter from the seasonal weather. Ned and Paula offer private wine tastings, with a guided tour of the vineyard and sampling of the wines at the barn. They also offer DIY wine tastings, the opportunity to sit amongst the vines with tasting notes, enjoy their wines and enjoy a picnic. A truly spectacular way to sample the wines and the atmosphere in this oasis of calm.
Ned and Paula are excited to show off their Leonora 2018 made from their rare Kernling grape. A wine that is getting picked up by a lot of restaurants due to its ability to pair with specific foods. There are some pleasant sharp and acidic notes, but not too overpowering. I detect some pear and lemon notes, but the flavours develop and a warmth of pink grapefruit comes through. A fascinating wine, unlike anything I’ve tasted before. We also try their Leonora 2022 which has a touch of natural sweetness, what Ned and Paula describe as “not sweet, just off dry”. At that moment, in the Oatley vineyard on a sunny day, it feels like the ideal wine. Full of flavour and character, I heartily recommend it.
The final wine we taste is a Brut Nature Fizz 2023, made from the Kernling grape. This is a ‘zero dosage’ wine, which means that no sugar is added after the second fermentation. The result is a natural tasting sparkling wine, which lets the grapes do the talking. It is a crisp and dry wine with notes of green apple and citrus.
Post tasting thoughts…
As I write this it occurs to me that I’ve lost all sense of time. Like all great vineyards the main signifier of time is the sun casting different shadows from the vines as the day progresses. Ned and Paula seem so in tune with their vineyard, they know what they want from it and how to nurture it to achieve that. By treating the vineyard and nature around it with complete respect, no herbicides used etc. the land gives back to them in a natural regenerative sense. The results of this labour shines through the wines, giving clean and generous flavours that will many happy moments for those fortunate enough to try them.
I strongly urge you, if possible, to make visiting Oatley an addition to your ‘wine bucket list’. You can find details on all their wines and tastings here and I would recommend adding them to your socials so that you don’t miss out on the next batch of rosé that they will produce.
As I wrap up this bit of writing I’m looking across at a bottle of Leonora 2022 (my personal favourite from the tasting) and thinking how fortunate we are to have wine producers like Oatley in our world. The care and attention they put into the vineyard goes far beyond producing great wine, it shines through the ecosystem around them. If you are travelling somewhere and you happen to see a ‘vineyard this way’ sign, then I urge you to head down that path and see what is growing. I assure you that your life will be richer for it.
Links…
To find out more about Oatley Vineyard then please visit https://www.oatleyvineyard.co.uk/